Koche Collection is a Champion

Koche RTW Fall-winter 2019/20 collection

By Tony Glenville.
> Tony’s reviews
Fashion Professionals

ACCORHOTELS ARENA, 75012 Paris

The vast spaces of the Omnisports Bercy might not seem like an ideal place to show fashion and clothes, but Christelle Kocher and her team know exactly what they’re doing; it was brilliant.

From the bright red lighting and white spotlights opening the show through to the massed dancing, cheering finale, this was a winner.

The signature sporty influences were all still there but there was a polished sophistication to the entire presentation, and the styling, accessories and general atmosphere of the show marked a stride forward into modern elegance and really beautiful clothes which was joyous and uplifting.

There were many, many stand out pieces so I will just touch on a few of my favourites. The snappy red suit which opened the show, with its sexy fit and flare three quarter length jacket, the hot tangerine coat with its retro couture rounded silhouette and construction, and flippy hemmed raspberry dress with soft ballooning sleeves and a deep wide belt.

Orange draped velvet dress, yellow figured satin dress with zigzagging hemline, a pale beige trench over yellow pants, a foulard patterned pants suit, and a swishing fluid printed two piece of tunic dress and pants.

The superb jacket of panels cut like a football curved into a Balenciaga silhouette, and the broad shouldered black cloque cocktail dress whose drama was in its simplicity.

The black redingote shown over silver glitter encrusted leggings, the black tuxedo dress with Chantilly lace hem, and the evening dresses in sequins, flags and ruffles all of which featured movement in their silhouettes. The cascades of ruffles into trains, or the huge swing of arching fabric into soft back panels was beautiful.

The pace of the show and the shear impact of the number of models, as for the finale they filled the space was terrific. At any one time there were several marching through the space, the illuminated announcements telling us who they were and they’re number, like champion athletes.

The integration of the menswear looks into the show and the brilliant diversity casting, which is such a signature of Koche all added to the strength of the show.

Applause please, for a modernist whose attitude is sharp, and who knows how to design really great fashion pieces with a strict editorial eye.

TG.

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PR : Lucien PAGES
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France
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