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Alexander MCQUEEN RTW 19- Fall-winter 2019 collection

DNMAG-ALEXANDER-MCQUEEN-RTW19-FALL19-20

Alexander MCQUEEN, Rose of England

Alexander MCQUEEN RTW 19- Fall-winter 2019 collection

Tony Glenville - DN Mag - Fashion EditorBy Tony Glenville.
Tony’s reviews

Alexander MCQUEEN RTW 19- Fall-winter 2019 collection
Vote : 5 (100%) 17 vote[s]

 

 

Re-see Tuesday 5th March

“I went home for this collection, back to where I grew up in the North of England, surrounded by mill towns and wild countryside.The heart of the collection is inspired by the boots of cloth we saw woven both by man and machine”Sarah Burton

The heritage of a name, a legend a founder can be wonderful, or a poisoned chalice. Sarah Burton worked for many years alongside the late Alexander McQueen, but she is not him, but her heart and brain instils each collection with an aesthetic which carries echoes and threads back to him.

Military in sharp red and black, the wild landscapes of the British Isles,the beauty of decay, a touch of punk, and above all a respect for tradition but a desire to subvert it, or twist it, into new questioning forms.

This season all those aspects of the house were clearly in evidence. The chalk striped jacket where the component pieces of the perfectly tailored Savile Row jacket were taken apart and reasssembled in immaculate off kilter propitions, the glorious rose effect sleeve which frayed and disintegrated as we looked at it.

The work with mills in England has produced some sensational fabrics, touching them is a privilege and knowing the McQueen house’s contribution to the heritage of tailoring and tradtion is inspiring.

Pleated spiralling taffeta ruffles in couture perfection scissored raw at the edges and interspersed with loops of tiny corset hooks on silken cords.

A black tailored jacket covered with thirty different types of buttons,  dozens of them held and pierced by myriad sized and metallic coloured safety pins.

The flounced and ruffled ivory white lace skirt which on close examination turned out to be filigree knitting, or the broad red taffeta stripe slicing down the side of a pair of black trousers.

The evening dress which was inspired the northern love of ballroom dancing featured embroidery of dozens of pairs of glittering earrings, much favoured by those dancers, however closer examination showed the base for the embroidery to be a couture version of a string vest as a simple sleeveless side split tunic, and matching down the centre, between all the pairs was one row of single earrings to muddle the final symmetry.

The rose inspired taffeta ball gowns; hand draped in each version were fabulous and unrepeatable, but my favourite rose inspiration was the severe long jacket whose sleeves suddenly exploded into draped satin roses in a dense rose pink, almost in a Cocteau manner of transformation,  La Belle et La Bete?

Sarah Burton understands exactly what she is doing each season as she herself subverts the heritage of the house, whilst never leaving it far behind, a most sensational example of successfully walking the fashion high wire.

 

TG.

 

 

Alexander MCQUEEN – Ready-to-wear 2019 collection
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Womenswear Fall 2019 collection

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