Carine Gilson, feather light Japanese birds take flight
Carine Gilson RTW 2019 – FW 2019/20 collection
Carine Gilson FW 19/20 March 4,2019 Hotel Shangri-La 10 Ave d’Iena
Carine Gilson showed her 2nd season of ready-to-wear Monday at the Hotel Shangri-La. The collection of eveningwear blending well with the lingerie collection she has been creating for 25 years. It is no wonder with such extensive experience working with fine silks, laces and delicate embroideries that her evening collection would translate into a refined collection with attention to every detail in fabrics, workmanship, and color.
The lingerie collection was inspired by Japonisant painted water-flower and bird motifs and one had the impression that each one of these looks could soon take flight in their and luxurious weightlessness. Colors soft and poetic while others rich like plums lavished in butter. Here one finds kimonos garnished with wide Obi-like sashes, wide-panted pajamas sets, nuisettes in long and short styles and detailed with cutouts in French chantilly lace. The aquatic Japanese print available in several colorways dreamlike in its diaphanous curved depiction of water fauna, flora and fowl.
In the ready-to-wear evening collection also inspired by Japanese cut and technique is also inspired by ‘le smoking’ (tuxedo). Here the evening wear does not betray the lingerie roots of their creator. Looks are fluid and are cut to feminine curves. One piece a silky bright white short kimono jacket is hand-painted to create an ombrée effect on the bottom in black.
Cutwork chiffon flowers is embroidered over to create an effect of lace. The effect is light and gossamer. This intricate and delicate work feels more like Haute Couture than ready-to-wear.
Some accessories of hand-painted and satin or gathered lace obis were a nice detail in the collection. But the crowning glory was found in a ball gown made of tissue-paper-light mauve pink lace.
The bustier top for this dress made of rows of micro cartridge-pleating to be let loose at the waist. Here we have the vision of Madame Grès.
Carine Gilson’s duel collections for evening or intimate-wear are feather-light and elegant additions to this season.
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