Paul Smith’s man, Horse Ridding Dandy meets Sporty Hipster
Paul Smith Men’s Fall/winter 2019-20
January 20, 2019, Elysée Montmartre 75018
Paul Smith’s men’s show this season presented at the Élysée Montmartre ballroom was a mix of two styles; one of the country, horse-riding dandy and the other a downtown sportswear loving hipster. This entire menswear season seemed a place where designers gathered despairing subjects and styles and reached for a hybrid hoping to suit every man.
The result was a juggling act and some turned out better results than others. At the show this Sunday there were some great signature pieces in the fall/winter offer from Smith. And his tailoring still remains to be one of the best in town. But not all of the elements brought together in the show worked seamlessly together.
Outerwear was in the center stage for silhouettes in the collection. A bright showing of hunter jackets was present as well as long-coats in traditional boiled wool felt, while the snakeskin printed leather versions were plastic-looking and less successful as a look.
There was a good turn out in bombers in wool, leather, floral print, and mixed sized windowpane. Boxy sweatshirts, tailored with deep ribbed V-necklines in flannel, leather, and quilted satin looked sporty and new.
And I particularly liked the bright Miami blue and lemon fuzzy mohair sweaters with their contrasting single stripe in tangerine or white. Colors this season were right on cue.
With the obligatory highlights in neon, and bright orange, ultramarine, yellow, pink and a smatter of red were there and on trend. Monochromatic camouflage, yellow and black windowpane, chalk-stripped felt, and plaids were also right inline for this season.
But somehow, so many disparaging elements never found their meld and the show, which started soft never quite got off the ground.