Undercover by Jun Takahashi – Men’s Fall 2019
Undercover by Jun Takahashi – FW 2019/20 – Men’s Fall – Paris Fashion Week
A Clockwork Orange, the Three Musketeers, Cyrano de Bergerac and alpine hiking combined in a nightmarish cacophony
January 16th 2019 – Salle Wagram, Paris
Wednesday, suitably showing in the theatrical Baroque theater of the Salle Wagram in Paris, Undercover unveiled their Men’s fall/winter 2019/20 collection.
This year’s theme, a combination of veritable subjects including the movie A Clockwork Orange, the Three Musketeers, Cyrano de Bergerac and alpine hiking combined in a nightmarish cacophony. As usual Takahashi somehow made these veritable subjects come together, in his own Undercover parallel universe.
The heavy and ominous boom and gonging of the soundtrack from A Clockwork Orange vibrated the building, capable of waking the dead. The menacing cloudy sky projected overhead and the obscuring smoke readied the fashion crowd for another weird and twisted Undercover production.
Models wore Venetian masks, variously colored, and flocked Aka: Cyrano de Bergerac, and hats; bowler, poor-boy, American revolution, ski and baseball caps all festooned with brightly colored ostrich feathers completed the fare.
Holding large heavy canes models looked menacing and ready to inflict pain. Details of heavy ski-knits for giant cuffs with gloves reaching forearms à la Musketeers and rubber rain-boots in an array of colors completing the look and were some of the more spooky and theatrical props.
Fabrics in boiled and fuzzy wool, polar fleece, double-knit, jersey, heavy sweater knit, and outer-wear type technical fabrics for ski and rain were painted and printed with faces from Mozart to characters in the movie, together with iconic printed vocabulary from the same.
Colors were mostly muted versions of a brighter palette. Thus tangerine became soft orangey cinnamon, pink and lavender grayed and dusty, and sky blue became powder as well as mustard and praying mantis green. Lots of grays and black of course were present as a canvas to the rest. One bright color punctuated the palette and created the theme for the finale was deep scarlet arterial red.
The silhouette this season was based on active sports shapes. Hoodies and sweat-suits, long parkas, puffers, rain slickers, fluffy utility uni-suits, oversized woolen ski-sweaters, an array of dusters in every fabric, crumpled and worn plaid tweed baggy suits, and rushed and gathered-at-the-knee knickers made a big appearance. And somehow the details, colors and shapes came together with accurate styling and staging so that such everyday and modern pieces of clothing took on the appearance of a costume drama set in the early seventeenth-century.
Putting the staging aside and pulling apart the collection it is easy to see that Jun Takahashi has his eyes well trained on the commercial side of his business. Taking apart any one of the pieces from the total look, it is easy to imagine it incorporating effortlessly into any stylish man’s wardrobe.
PR Contact : Michele MONTAGNE
184 Rue Saint-Maur, 75010 Paris
Phone : 09 64 01 24 02
Watch now :UNDERCOVER Men Fall 2019/20 – Full Show Video